Are you wondering what this bright yellow brew is that looks rather like a nuclear liquid than a refreshing beverage? It is actually Peruās most popular soft drink called Inca Kola. Yes, the most popular, even more so than Coca Cola!
Whether it is delicious may be debatable. Nevertheless, everybody who is visiting Peru should definitely give it a try. And you will have no difficulty in finding it!Ā
The sugar-sweet drink is available pretty much anywhere! From fast-food joints such as McDonaldās or the typical Chifa restaurants to high-class cevicherias and even in Peruvian airlines.
Inca KolaĀ (also known as “the Golden Kola” in international advertising) is aĀ soft drinkĀ that was created inĀ PeruĀ in 1935 by British immigrant Joseph Robinson Lindley.Ā The soda has a sweet, fruity flavor that somewhat resembles its main ingredient,Ā lemon verbenaĀ (verbena de IndiasĀ orĀ cedrónĀ in Spanish).Ā
Americans compare its flavor toĀ bubblegumĀ orĀ cream soda. Sometimes categorized as aĀ champagne cola, it has been described as “an acquired taste” whose “intense color alone is enough to drive away from the uninitiated.
The Coca-Cola Company owns the Inca Kola trademark everywhere but in Peru. In Peru, the Inca Kola trademark is owned by Corporación Inca Kola Perú S.A., which since 1999 is a joint venture between The Coca-Cola Company and the Lindley family, former sole owners of Corporación Inca Kola Perú S.A. and Corporación Lindley S.A.
Peruvians drink Inca Cola instead of water, and there will be three times as many empty Inca bottles as water bottles lying around at any construction site. The soda has a bubblegum flavor that is reminiscent of sessions at the dentist ā but Peruvians love it all the same.Ā
More than anything, it is a symbol of national pride and history, a corporate nod to the great Incas. If you donāt care much for the drink, whatever you do, donāt mention it. Itās like insulting their country and will be received with scorn.
In 1999, the Peruvian Press celebrated a decisive victory for their nation over the great avatar of globalized consumerism, Coca-Cola. For decades, the transnational behemoth had tried to become the top-selling soda in Peru. Yet it never managed to surpass a locally beloved brand, Inca Kola.Ā
A brew theĀ Chicago TribuneĀ once described as āradioactive yellowā with āa bubble-gum bouquet,ā and which Argentine writerĀ Jorge Luis Borges labeledĀ āan implausible drink,ā it is one of the only regional sodas Coke never managed to overtake.Ā
So the goliath agreed to partner with Inca Kola rather than compete, buyingĀ half of the brand and a third of the sharesĀ in the local, family-run business. In an act that some read as surrender, Cokeās then-CEO, M. Douglas Ivester, who reportedly loathed Inca Kola, took a swig in front of snap-happy reporters in Lima.
For many Peruvians, 1999ās victory felt especially sweet because Inca Kola had long served as a rallying point for national pride and identity. Peruvian celebrity chef Hajime Kasuga has goneĀ so far as to declare, āInca Kola runs through the veins of Peruvian babies.āĀ
More recently Ben Orlove, an anthropologist who studies Peru, attended a Peruvian independence day celebration at the nationās ambassadorās residence in New York.Ā
At the end of the night, attendees received a tote containing, among other things, a can of Inca Kola. In short, as Tristan Donovan, author ofĀ Fizz: How Soda Shook Up The World, puts it, the brand ācarries a cultural meaning that goes far beyond the ordinary soda.ā
But Inca Kola was never Peruās only beloved local soda. As Orlove points out, back in the ā70s and prior, the nation was awash in regional soda brands, many of them with strong local followings.Ā
He has fond memories of Pedrin, a soda produced by a small bottling plant in the highland town of Sicuani. So how did the āimprobableā Inca Kola become Peruās national soda and a successful Coca-Cola competitor?
The classic story runs that, as Charles Walker, a historian who studies Peru, puts it, āon the marketing side, they just nailed itā by constructing a brand that appealed to national pride.Ā
Inca Kola launched out of Lima in 1935, during the 400-year anniversary of the cityās founding. Its unique flavor, its creators stressed, was a secret recipe based in uniquely Andean fruits. (Most suspect itāsĀ anchored on lemon verbena, but the exact flavoring remains mysterious.) And its name and original logo spoke to Peruās strongly claimed Incan heritage.
āPeruviansā pride about their Incan ancestry canāt be underestimated,ā stresses Keith Lang of the food blogĀ EatPeru. āThe grand Inca legacy was something to hold onto in times when the country battled poverty, political instability, and sluggish economic growth.Ā
It meant a great deal for a country whose citizens often feel, or are made to feel, inferior to other countries.āĀ
Since Inca Kolaās launch, its ubiquitous advertising has seeped into every cultural event and institutionāāeven little school sports teams,ā notes Peruvian anthropologist Enrique Mayer. Starting in the ā60s, company slogans promoted the drinkĀ as the national flavor of PeruĀ and called on consumers to patriotically support them against foreign brands.
But this patriotic branding is,Ā according to some academics and cultural critics, problematic. Inca Kolaās visual ads, especially, tend to portray Peruvians as culturally homogenous and exclude darker-skinned individuals, perpetuating racial and class-based biases. And the vigor with which the band dips into the well of nationalism can feel odd when one considers that Inca Kola was created by the Lindleys, an English family that moved to Lima and opened a soft drink company in 1911.Ā
Before launching Inca Kola, they made citrus sodas using syrups imported from the U.K. andĀ received economic support from the British embassy at least once, in 1918, to help them compete against local soda companies.
Still, Lang points out, Peruvians embraced the cola, as the ads āassociated [it] with an improved financial situation and a more modern lifestyle,ā which many craved. The Lindleys took pains toĀ portray themselves as thoroughly Peruvian, naming their companyās first iteration after a local saint and adopting Spanish diminutives for themselves.Ā
Peruvians are used to people of diverse backgrounds becoming part of national lifeārecent presidents include a Fujimori and a Kuczynski. And they are seemingly forgiving of things that may seem to outsiders like cultural trespasses or oversteps.Ā
Case in point, few Peruvians seem to harbor ill will towards Coca ColaĀ over its historic (and ongoing) monetization of Andean coca leaves, a crop thatĀ the U.S. and international bodies otherwise condemnĀ even when itās being used for traditional purposes rather than cocaine production.